Happy Out Front, Macaws Over the Hill

That morning, guide Corina set out for Cerro el Peligro with two tourists and the indispensable company of Happy — the golden-coated mixed-breed dog who has long since earned the unofficial title of the reserve's hostess. Happy did what Happy does: she took the lead from the very first step of the trail, as if she knew the work better than anyone, and so she guided the group through the green heat of the cartagenera savanna. It didn't take long for the tourists to fall for her completely. The day's photos tell the story without need for words: Happy receiving hugs, Happy gazing at the horizon from the buggy with the gravity of someone who has important things to attend to. It's the kind of spontaneous affection that no itinerary can plan for. But the outing had one more surprise in store. Already near the hill, above the tree canopy, the guacamayas bandera appeared — blue and yellow, unmistakable — sweeping over the area with that joyful commotion that gives them away before you ever manage to spot them. Counting the individuals wasn't possible, but their presence in that part of the reserve is now on record, and that alone is enough to make the day worthwhile.